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Here in the US we have this mix of uses so you get exposed to both. I was a bike mechanic in my late teens which is mostly metric and it was also a hardware store so I'm familiar with both. I never used the letter designations for standard, just the thread count.

Quick tip on grades/class. Metric class 8.8 is equivalent to standard grade 5, metric class 10.9 is equivalent to standard grade 8. Anything not marked is class 4 for metric or grade 2 for standard. I'm assuming the metric classes were made to be the same as standard hence the reason for decimal.

There is 1/2 13, 1/2 20 and rarely 1/2 28, the second number is the thread count per inch. If you have existing 1/2 bolt with known thread count you can just see if the threads line up with the threaded shaft on the drill.

Note 1/2 inch is almost identical size to 13mm, the threads should not line up but there is a few sizes/pitch where they are very close.

Once you determine what sizes you have they have "thread adapters". This is not the one you need but something like this. They also make them to adapt metric to standard.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804920391294.html?src=google&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

From many different sources. Someone's email account gets hacked and they get the contact list, service you are using like forum software has the server hacked. There is very long list of ways. They may even just guess it. There is constant stream of email addressed to common names on any email server.

Once it's on one list it gets passed around and ends up on many lists.

Not sure if it's related but when using FTP if you transfer a binary file using ASCII mode it will corrupt the header in the file.

Overall as you delete files on a disk that space is made available to other files, when you reformat it's all made available. Once it's overwritten with new data the old data is gone. As already noted if it wasn't defragmented it's an even bigger issue. With a large file it's more likely that chunks of it are written to different locations on the disk increasing the chance parts of it will be overwritten.

There is a little icon to the right of the title as long as there is new activity, that will take you to the first new post. Those icons appear in regular forum list too. That icon may appear in different places but it's pretty standard on any forum software.

Most cameras can be accessed as drive through file explorer once you plug them in with USB. You shouldn't really need the Kodak software.

Try and find a copy of Ulead Photoimpact and make sure it includes the .gif animator. It's basically a video editor for .gif's. You would be hard pressed to find a better tool for working with gif's. I know it will run under Windows 10, not sure about 11.

That bitrate would be near the minimum threshold of what you can use for that resolution with MPEG2 encoder. You'd only set it that low if file size is concern. If the macroblocking is too much and you need to maintain smaller file you need to decrease the resolution. If file size is not a concern set the bitrate higher.

I guess I could of been more clear but what I said was "commonly" and "typically", point is just because it has USB port doesn't mean it will transfer DV over it.

Be aware the USB port on most mini-dv cameras was commonly there for transferring photos from a SD card, they typically had camera function that produced images around 1MP and some could record video to it but it wasn't DV. If it was capable of streaming video over USB it was typically a low resolution stream you might use for live streaming. For both the recording and the live stream if I recall correctly it was DVD compliant mpeg1. I believe the idea was you could use it for webcam.

To clarify so this is not misinterpreted.... what I meant was the final playback device. For capture you don't want the playback device adding letterboxing or pillar boxing.

If you are doing this correctly the black bars are added by the playback software/device as required. The only black bars you should be adding is to mask overscan area to remove noise.

Perhaps this will help. If you are looking at raw 720*480 with aspect of 16:9 round objects will take on egg shape. It's flagged as 16:9 so the software/playback device can adjust the playback appropriately and add black bars if necessary. e.g letterboxing for 16:9 playback on 4:3 display or pillar boxing for playback of 4:3 on 16:9 screen.

If the date/time was set on the camcorder it should be embedded as meta data. It's been a while since I did any transfers but I used to use a pro program from Ulead and you could set it to automatically split the transfer into different files based on the splits in the timecode. No idea what software supports that now.





It's a time consuming process and If it were me I'd just get 2TB+ external drive, transfer directly to that. Use the remaining space to convert for whatever formats you want. You can always go back to the source DV down the road.

Ooops, fixed. I'm used to looking at phpBB quotes where the quote tags are much longer. Your start tag was nested right after his.

Just store the DV-AVI, it's not a massive file. About 13GB per hour. With 75 tapes and assuming 1 hour per tape you only need a terabyte which isn't exactly a whole lot these days.

Might because they were recorded using "long play", especially if it's not the cam that recorded it.

My opinion on the ADVC is not technical in nature. My opinion and the facts are it just works. It may not be the very best method but "best" is subjective.

I'll throw my 2 cents in here. Back in the early 2000's I purchased a AIW. Not sure if this is still an issue but it was impossible to get a clean capture. No matter what I did including new VCR, cables etc it would always trigger the Macrovision protection. These weren't poor tapes either, they were rarely viewed home tapes that were stored well.

The company I had purchased the computer from sent me upgraded card with a whopping 256MB of RAM.:p This wasn't a ATI card but it did have VIVO. First try with capturing went well however the capture quality wasn't on par with the frames from the ATI, here is where it gets funny. I upgraded the drivers and now I'm getting a box over the capture about copyright. :rolleyes:

That's when I went and bought a ADVC 110 and never looked back. Plugged it in and 5 minutes later I was capturing, it just worked. I didn't have a TBC at the time or a VCR with one but I'm sure both cards would of worked if I did have one.

Quick bit of trivia here, the big difference between the ADVC 100 and 110 is you can't disable Macrovision detection on the 110.

If you think it's solder related I fixed a mobo on a LED TV once by baking it. Put it on a baking sheet with some cardboard. Think it was 375F for ten minutes. Used a toaster oven outside because you will get a little smell. Then I cracked the oven door a little to let most of the heat out and closed it back up to let it cool slowly for about 20 minutes.

It was spike the ball moment when it worked. TV lasted another 4 or 5 years.

If you were going to invest in multiple drives I would suggest RAID1 storage. It's not a true backup because a corrupt file is corrupted on both drives and since they are physically in the same machine they are both subject to something like power surge.

That said it will almost always prevent the most common loss of data which is sudden drive failure. Your "backup" is real time and as a small bonus it can increase read times. If a disk fails you'll know it immediately and you can take the appropriate steps to preserve data on the good one like popping in another disk to rebuild the RAID1 array.

As far as how long a HDD can last siting on a shelf they are filled with an inert gas. Otherwise the platters themselves would oxidize. This also prevents oxidation of any lubricants which is the primary reason they will get sticky. I have no idea how long but it's probably a considerable length of time.

I recall there being a degaussing option in the menu on my Sony Trinitron.... 20 years ago. LOL

I'm usually not one to recommend getting rid of something that works but with the quality of new monitors and the power savings it just makes sense. You'll probably save enough on not powering that nuclear reactor in one or two years to pay for new monitor.

A heat pump, AC and refrigerator all do the same thing. Through mechanical action they move heat from one space to another. When you compress a gas you are also compressing the heat energy so it gets hot. For an AC unit for example you compress the gas and outside the home you run this through finned tubing with a fan blowing across it to dissipate the heat. You decompress the gas on the inside of the home and once again blow air through finned tubing. The cold gas absorbs the heat resulting in cold air. Rinse and repeat.

Turn your AC unit around in the window and now it's pushing heat into the house. Just trying to make point here, you can't actually do this with regular AC unit because it wouldn't have the controls for it.

If you want a simple example look no further than the aerosol can. When the contents of that can are compressed it's going to be hot. The heat dissipates and the compressed contents reach ambient temps. When you depress the button the contents decompress and will feel very cold. They will also make the can itself feel very cold if you let out enough of it.

Generally speaking a window sized heat pump is probably about twice the cost of an AC unit, note they will do both heat and AC. They are not cheap but with newer units you might get twice the heat at 17 degrees outside air temps compared to any regular electric heater.. At warmer temps it can be 3 times. If I wanted to heat a single room and electric was my only choice the window heat pump unit would make the most sense. There is up front costs but long term it will save you a lot of money over regular electric heat.

For cartoons if the color pallete required is less than 256 colors using .gif you can get some very small file sizes without artifacts inherent with .jpg

If you are changing just the DPI at the very most it might change by a byte or two, there is no change in the image data. The discrepancy would be because of changes to the header.

Here is some examples. The image data is identical. Save the files and import into Word doc to see DPI in action.

249x276 @72 DPI


249x276 @600 DPI

Pixels have no physical dimension, DPI is just meta data used to give them a default physical size when you have a physical canvas. If you have a 300px*300px image using 72DPI and change just the DPI it's still a 300px*300px image, it's the exact same image data.

If you were to display these images in web browser and don't specify a size with HTML it uses the native pixel size, they would display exactly the same each taking up an area 300px*300px on your screen because a browser doesn't use DPI. Insert these two images into a Word document which has a physical canvas and they will be different sizes.

Depends on where in the US. It's a pleasant 70 degrees (21C) in the Florida keys right now which is pretty normal. There is some lows in the negative digits in some northern states, -10 would be -23C. Also normal for this time of year.

Whether it's standard electric baseboard, plug in the wall heater, oil filled heater, light bulb, hair dryer, your toaster, infrared heater or some heater being advertised on TV with some super secret tech they all produce the exact same amount of heat for the same amount of electric consumption. Specifically 3,412 BTU's per kWh. The only way they differ is how they distribute heat. The small electric heaters usually have a fan, the oil filled heaters provide a more even heat similar to hot water radiator.

How you can save money with these is if you don't have zoned heating. You can turn the heat down in the rest of the house and use them to heat one room. Just be aware the cost per BTU is also a factor, you can heat three rooms with gas for what it will cost you with electric. At least in most areas of the US. I have a fuel comparison calculator if you want to mess around with it.

https://coalpail.com/fuel-comparison-calculator-home-heating


The only way you would save any money with battery storage is if you had lower rates during the time you were charging them. This however introduces inefficiencies and the cost of the batteries. You would need an enormous amount of battery storage for a heater, as in many regular car batteries. Any savings on electric rates evaporates.

If you are looking to save money on electric only heating the only real option is a heat pump. They do not use electric as the source of the heat and can produce up 3 times the heat as standard electric heat using the same amount of power, it's variable and depends on the units efficiency relative to outdoor air temps. As the temperature drops they consume more power per BTU produced. They make smaller window units that can do both heat and A/C if you want it for only one room.

"Free" depends on your perspective, that's a lot of work. I used to tell people if they were going to cut wood, sell the wood and buy coal. Nowadays that wouldn't make much sense. The recent increases are driven by an enormous demand from Europe.

When the primary source of energy for the electric you are using is gas and coal those laws outlawing gas stoves are quite frankly stupid. It's much more efficient to use it at the location you need the energy. Those laws can increase emissions. A newer gas power plant using a technology called combined cycle might be 60% efficient at best, this is before you account for losses in transmission. This could never compete with directly using gas to heat.

As far as anthracite goes anti smoke laws would not affect it, it has lower PM emissions than oil fired units. The only source of heat that would be lower is natural gas. When the EPA was clamping down on these wood stoves this affected some coal stoves because they were labeled dual fuel. They were tested with wood and since they had the opportunity they tested them with anthracite, apparently even the regulators were surprised how low they were. This is information given to me by a manufacturer. The dual fuel lable was removed and they are now only labeled for coal.

As far as industrial and commercial use that is going to be covered under EPA regs. Most of your PM pollution has been eliminated by scrubbers, when you are looking at industrial smoke stack anything visible is water vapor. Because of it's cost even going back to the early 1900's anthracite has never been used in industry. At most it may have been used for large commercial boilers for heating applications.


The use of coal for home heating started a steady decline in the 1920's. Around 1922 PA mined about 200 millions coal equally split between soft coal and anthracite. This was a record that stood into the 2000's when it was eclipsed by Wyoming. Today production for soft coal is somewhere around 40 million tons and 5 million for anthracite. Anthracite is only about 1% of US production.

Is it just not enforced? I know there is people in those counties using anthracite and bit coal. You might be able to get bit coal for about $60 out that way, the anthracite is going to run you $500+/- a ton. It's quite high right now because of a huge demand from Europe that developed over this Ukraine situation.

This is restored 1890's "Baseburner", about $15K+/-, it's not typical, new modern stoves and boilers are the most common. A stove like this when originally made would of been found in the homes of very wealthy people.

I know this is an old topic but surprised how many people answered coal. When they mention anthracite it's the highest grade of coal and nearly pure carbon. It's "smokless". My avatar is anthracite.



Radiation is going to provide a more even heating experience. There is two cons, it's much more expensive to install and it takes up some space in the living space. Personally after seeing the condition on the inside of many ducts I would never go near ducted heat or AC. I can be gross to put it bluntly and difficult to clean properly.

You can get it from this thing called the internet, there is three requirements.

1. Internet Connection
2. A computer
3. A browser

If you have met those requirements:

Step 1: Connect the computer to internet.
Step 2: Turn the computer on.

Google is your friend.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=pngcrush+entire+directory

There is a command line program called pngcrush, you can run it on entire directory. It can substantially reduce .png file sizes.

Not going to launch into another tirade about using ADVC-110s and use of RCA? :rolleyes:[/QUOTE]


Now that you mention it I might have used s-video. LS and I have already been down that path numerous times. We have mutual truce. I don't mention the MV issues with the AIW, he doesn't mention the quality issues with VHS to DV :p

In fact I had one particular tape that was very special to me I sent to him to process. He did a fantastic job.

I "retired" in 2006. Still have a very active forum though, going to be 20 years this October.

I haven't posted here in over a decade....:D



When I was capturing I used DVC 110 and the simple reason for that is because it just worked. 1 minute capture or two hour capture, it just worked.

Setting aside the VHS to DV conversion issues DV is lossy but it's marginal. There is a post here somewhere buried but years ago as an experiment I exported some frames to .png directly from an originally recorded DV source. Repeated this with the same frames from the DV source played through my camera over RCA into the DVC 110 and the result for all intents and purposes was identical frames.

LOL, as I recall you haven't been a moderator here for about 20 years.

I don't remember this "noobie" usually_quiet but perhaps that is just my memory going with old age. I do remember Stiltman and of course Baldrick. Anyone else around from the early days?

Was looking at my posts here and I posted in a Christmas topic in 2019 and nothing before that going back to mid 2000's. <sigh> Getting old sucks.

Just checking in and wondering how much of the old group is around.