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Get your end life license from here for free.[/QUOTE]
Thank you, I'll get one right away.


I gave that a shot, and unfortunately it did not work. Thanks for the heads-up on the LSI chips, I'll look into them too!


That's not how it all should work of course.
Specially if you can not shut down your PC when the camera is connected (unpowered too?) is awkward indeed.

Rather than creating one thousand replies, I'll make one big reply post. Summary at the end.


I had not, but now I have (it says it is the trial version, I presume that is fine?), and unfortunately it says that there is no camera connected.
The camera usually sends DV out automatically, but I made sure to manually enable "A/V -> DV OUT" in the settings menu this time too.
Also did the privacy settings thing that dellsam34 and Alwyn suggested.


I looked at prices in my region and... it's outside my budget at the moment. I might try it as a last resort.

Hey everyone, just letting you know that I'll issue a proper set of replies later today. Sorry to not have been able to reply earlier!

Hello, updating this post (a second time): I'll be able to try some of the suggestions out tomorrow (3/4/24), I mostly have my computer back in a functional state.

Everyone else is already giving very solid answers, so I'll just make my comment be a few random thoughts from someone who used to develop VR software. They should be good to keep in mind when making the decision of whether to get a HMD, and which kind.

1. The quality will depend on the resolution and type of display on the headset. The HMD will have a much higher pixel per cm value compared to a TV, but you will also be a lot closer to that display, it probably evens out.
Also, the shape and lens on the display can affect the viewing experience. Early Vive units had an awful lens with grooves, it felt like watching content through bottle glasses.

2. In general, 2D content is not as enjoyable in VR (unless it is a recording taken from a first-person perspective, with an activity that largely focuses on the centre of the screen), as you can't rotate your head, you won't be able to focus on things where the lens does not concentrate, the edges of the video might be blury or hard to see. In VR videos, this is not an issue because if you want to look at a corner, you just rotate your head to make whatever was on the corner of your vision be in front of you, you can't do this with a 2D video.

3. For a cheap option, you could buy a "phone VR headset" and use a phone with a very high resolution. It might only be half as good as a really high spec HMD, but it will also be many times cheaper.

4. HMD can be really heavy (except the new Oculus ones apparently, but I don't have experience with those). This is usually not an issue when playing games, as you are standing up. But if you sit down to watch 2D videos, you should take care to keep your posture upright, otherwise it could slowly damage your spine over time.

Hello everyone,

I have a DCR-PC8E camcorder alongside a whole stack of old family recordings that I've been trying to digitalize for the last couple of months. Unfortunately, I've tried just about everything (within my budget) and I'm starting to lose hope.
I'm hoping that the experts here can help me finally figure out what it is that I need to do to get these recordings digitalized.
The contents of these tapes are of high sentimental value to me and my family, and I don't want to give up on preserving them just yet.

Originally I was advised to post this in the mac subforum, but I've since tried (in desperation) a PC too, so I'm writing this thread on the generic capturing subforum.

Bad move. You probably won't get the response you need by hopping onto a topic unrelated to your issue.

Also, there is a dedicated Mac subforum here:

https://forum.videohelp.com/forums/17-Mac

I suggest you repost this there.

I'm now going to be a heretic :) :) and comment on this:

Hello!

Sorry to necro this thread as a new user, but are there any programs to transfer DV for Mac (High Sierra OS version)?

So far, I have tried PlayMemories as per the recommendation of a support person at Sony. It did not work, the software can't seem to detect the camera.
I have also tried QuickTime Video, this does work, but unfortunately it works too well and it also receives the clock data or something, which causes the video recording to instantly stop the second that there is a cut in the videotape to another shot. This means I need to re-start the software and wind back the tape each time a cut happens, which is very time-consuming and usually leads to the first couple of seconds of video being lost.

If possible, I'd like to know if there so happens to be any software for my hardware that could just let me digitalize the entire video-tape hands off, even if it leads to it recording a couple cuts or empty spaces on the tape.
I'm not opposed to switching to windows, but the quality drastically falls when not using my Mac, probably because it is old enough to actually have a FireWire port that jacks directly into the camera itself.